Crochet a Beanie with a Post Stitch Ribband Trim
A well-fitting beanie is one of those handmade staples that gets worn constantly through the cooler months, tossed in a bag for road trips down the coast, and pulled on for early morning walks before the sun clears the horizon. Crocheting your own means you can choose the exact colour, fibre and slouch you prefer, and a post stitch ribband trim gives the brim that classic knitted-rib stretch without needing a set of knitting needles. Learn more about Krwknitwear.com.
Post stitch ribbing looks identical to knitted 1x1 or 2x2 rib, but it is built entirely from crochet techniques using front and back post double crochets worked in alternating columns. The result is a brim that hugs the forehead, springs back into shape after washing, and sits flat against the headband of the beanie. The body of the hat can then be worked in simple stitches, leaving the textural interest concentrated at the edge where it matters most.
Selecting Yarns and Tools for an Australian Winter
Australian winters vary dramatically from Hobart's frosty mornings to Brisbane's mild dry-season chill, so yarn choice depends heavily on where you live and how warm you need the finished hat to be. Bendigo Woollen Mills and Morris & Sons both produce 8-ply and 10-ply wools that work beautifully for beanies, while lighter 5-ply cottons suit the milder climates of northern New South Wales and coastal Queensland.
A 4.5 mm or 5 mm crochet hook is the standard starting point for worsted-weight yarn, though many crocheters in Melbourne's cooler suburbs prefer going up half a size to soften the fabric and reduce pilling on high-friction areas like the brim. You will also need a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers for marking the beginning of rounds, and a tape measure for checking gauge against the pattern.
The studio's curated range of pattern bundles and recommended hooks can be browsed at KRW Knitwear Studio, where kits are often paired with video tutorials that walk you through every step of the ribband technique.
Mastering the Post Stitch Ribband Construction
Post stitches are worked by inserting the hook around the vertical post of a stitch from the row below rather than into the top loops. A front post double crochet is made by inserting the hook from front to back around the post, then completing the double crochet as normal. A back post double crochet is the mirror image: the hook goes from back to front around the post, then you finish the double crochet.
In a ribband, these two stitches alternate: one front post, one back post, repeated across the row. When worked over an even number of stitches, the alternation creates columns that lean slightly toward each other, mimicking the way knitted ribbing pulls inward. The fabric becomes naturally elastic without needing a stretchy bind-off, which is one of the main reasons crocheters choose this method for hat brims.
The ribband is usually worked flat first as a long rectangle, then seamed or slip-stitched to form a ring. The length of this rectangle determines the circumference of the finished beanie, so accurate measurement at this stage prevents the headache of a brim that is too tight or too loose later on. A common adult circumference is 50 to 55 cm, while children's beanies typically run 42 to 48 cm.
Crocheting the Beanie from Crown to Brim
Most beanie patterns begin at the crown with a magic ring or chain loop, then increase in concentric rounds until the circle reaches the desired diameter for the top of the head. From there, the body is worked even in half double crochet, single crochet, or a textured stitch until the hat is deep enough to cover the ears comfortably.
The ribband is added last, either by working directly into the bottom round of the hat body or by crocheting a separate band and sewing it on. The direct method creates an almost invisible join because the post stitches naturally blend into the body stitches, while a separate band allows for contrasting colourwork and easier washing of just the ribbed portion.
Below is a comparison of common yarn weights and their suitability for this project, based on the typical climate zones across Australia.
| Yarn Weight | Hook Size | Resulting Fabric | Best Climate |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5-ply cotton | 3.5 mm | Light, breathable | Coastal QLD, northern NSW |
| 8-ply wool | 4.5 mm | Warm, structured | Sydney, Perth, Adelaide |
| 10-ply wool | 5.5 mm | Thick, very warm | Hobart, Melbourne winter, alpine regions |
| DK acrylic blend | 4 mm | Soft, easy-care | Year-round indoor wear |
Gauge matters more than hook size alone. Always work a 10 cm swatch in your chosen stitch pattern and block it before committing to the full hat, particularly if you are substituting a yarn different from the one listed on the pattern. Australian Consumer Law requires accurate fibre content labelling on yarn sold commercially, so check the ball band for the percentage of wool versus acrylic when planning how warm the finished beanie will be.
Sizing, Fit and Brim Adjustments
A beanie that slips back off the head or pinches at the temples usually comes down to two factors: crown circumference and brim tension. If the crown is too small, the hat will perch on top of the head rather than covering the ears. If it is too large, the fabric will bunch and look sloppy.
To adjust the crown, add or remove stitches in the increase rounds. Most patterns call for six increase rounds to reach an adult medium diameter of around 18 cm, but going to seven rounds gives a slouchier fit that suits the beanies often seen on Brunswick Street in Fitzroy or in the laneways of Newtown.
The brim can also be made taller by working more rows of the front post and back post pattern. A 4 cm ribband looks neat and close-fitting, while a 7.5 cm ribband folds over the ears and works well for snow trips to the Snowy Mountains or frosty mornings in regional Victoria. Be aware that longer brims use more yarn and slightly reduce the stretch of the band, so plan accordingly.
Caring for Your Finished Beanie
Wool beanies benefit from gentle hand washing in cool water with a wool-specific detergent, even though many modern superwash wools claim to be machine washable. The agitation of a washing machine can felt the fibres over time, dulling the ribband's spring and shrinking the crown. After washing, roll the beanie in a dry towel to remove excess water, then lay it flat to dry away from direct sunlight, which can fade dyed yarn.
Blocking the ribband once before first wear helps set the post stitches into their final shape. Lay the band flat, pin it to the measurements listed in the pattern, and spritz lightly with water. Allow it to dry completely before unpinning and sewing the band to the body of the hat.
Store the finished beanie flat rather than hanging, as gravity can stretch the ribband over time. A small cedar block in the drawer will deter the clothes moths that occasionally target unwashed woollens stored in wardrobes through the warmer months.
Practical Tips for a Polished Finish
- Work the ribband on a hook one size smaller than the body to keep the brim firm and close-fitting against the forehead.
- Use a magic ring rather than a chain-two start for the crown to eliminate the small hole that sometimes appears at the very top of the hat.
- Mark every round with a stitch marker to avoid losing count when working in a spiral rather than joining rounds.
- Weave in ends with a tapestry needle threaded in the same direction as the stitches, never across them, to keep the join invisible.
- Steam-block lightly if the ribband looks compressed after sewing, taking care not to press directly onto textured stitches.